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09/10/10

C. Jeanenne Bell is a G.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America) Graduate Gemologist with over 30 years experience working with antique jewelry. She has made numerous television appearances as a jewelry expert and has authored many books on collectible jewelry. In How to be a Jewelry Detective (part of the "Antique Detectives" series by A.D. Publishing), Bells introduces us to basic methods used to identify, describe, and date jewelry. Although the book is marketed primarily to antique jewelry collectors, it contains a wealth of information that will help any fashion-jewelry lover better understand the jewelry they purchase and own.

About the Book

The 2002 printing of How to be a Jewelry Detective is a 166-page trade-size paperback with thick, glossy pages that can withstand a lot of wear. Bell begins with some examples of jewelry identification "mysteries" she has solved and, very generally, the methods she used to solve them. Most of the remainder of the book provides greater details about these methods and other tips and tricks for jewelry identification.

These include methods for determining whether a piece of jewelry is "fine" or "costume" (i.e., "fashion jewelry"), when it was made, and which company manufactured it. Bell also describes the ways gemstones and metals are examined, tested, and described. The main portion of the book concludes with a little "exam" testing the reader on the jewelry sleuthing skills covered throughout the book. A useful bibliography and much-needed glossary are included in the book's final pages.

Pros

How to be a Jewelry Detective contains a lot of useful information about jewelry and a little about jewelry history. I learned some very interesting facts that will help me to describe new and old jewelry more accurately and in greater detail. But I believe the greatest benefit of the book is the overview it provides to the methods used by experienced jewelry collectors and professionals.

If you have older jewelry that you know very little about, or if you would like to know more about jewelry appraisal before having jewelry appraised by a professional, this book is for you. It's also an excellent introduction to the field of jewelry study, which can help you determine whether you'd like to tackle a professional training program or more detailed books in the future.

I must also mention that the book contains some wonderful images of old jewelry advertising and rare and unusual jewelry collections.

Cons

I suspect the greatest challenge for Bell in writing this little book was keeping it short, to the point, and on an introductory - but still useful - level. In reading through the chapters, it becomes clear that Bell's knowledge of jewelry far exceeds what was appropriate for this intro-level book. There are times when her writing feels constrained, or even hurried, as if she's taken us by the hand and is sprinting through a magnificent, high-detail world that she just doesn't have space enough to fully expose or explain.

One thing I would recommend be added to future editions of the book are summary flow charts. After reading paragraphs of text on the many clues to consider when examining a particular piece of jewelry, it would be helpful to see a simplified chart (or "key") reminding us what to look for first, second, and so on. With the current edition, readers may wish to take notes as they read through each chapter, and create their own little charts for quick reference.

Recommended?

Bell admits that you will not become a jewelry appraiser by reading How to be a Jewelry Detective. To get the most out of this book, you'll need to set your expectations appropriately. It is not the one and only guide to jewelry study and identification you will need. Rather, it is a general introduction to jewelry identification that can be used as a gentle pathway into more intense studies. I definitely recommend this book for anyone just getting started with their jewelry studies or jewelry collection, or anyone who would simply like to be better informed about the jewelry they own or may purchase.

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