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Jewelry FAQ
02/09/12
PLATINUM Jewelry
The platinum group metals (PGM), comprise six closely related metals: Platinum,
Palladium, Rhodium, Ruthenium, Iridium and Osmium.
Platinum has a deep luster and a rich, white color. It is rarer, heavier and
denser than all precious metals and considered to be more valuable than gold.
Platinum is often used to set the most valuable gems to produce the finest
jewelry because it holds gemstones most securely and it neutral color enhances
the brilliance and depth of diamonds and precious stones.
In the United States platinum is usually marked: PT or PLAT
In Europe, it is marked: 950 or PT950
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GOLD Jewelry
Gold is a beautiful and imperishable metal. It was one of the first metals
to be mined because it commonly occurs in its native form (100% Pure)
Pure (100%) gold is too soft, and it is usually mixed with other metals (gold
alloys) to make it stronger and more usable for jewelry.
The metals that are mixed with pure gold for strength can also modify the color
of gold resulting in different shades of yellow, white, and pink.
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Jewel KARATS
Indicates the amount of pure gold in the metal. Abbreviation: kt
37.5% 41.7% 58.5% 75% 100%
USA: 9 kt 10 kt 14 kt 18 kt 24 kt
World Wide: 375 417 585 750 999
Example: Karat gold
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PRICE :
The following are some of the factors that determine the value of a gold
jewelry piece.
WEIGHT: gold is sold by weight - grams (gr) or pennyweights (dwt), the heavier
the piece, the higher the gold content, therefore it is more expensive.
DESIGN: designer jewelry is more expensive, especially if it is a one of a kind
piece.
FINISH: special finishes to the metal such as matte, or sand-blasted finish
add to the cost of the gold jewelry piece.
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SILVER Jewelry
Silver is the most reflective and affordable of the precious metals.Sterling
silver is the standard of quality for articles containing 92.5% silver and 7.5%
copper.
Vermeil is a gold plated sterling silver.
MARKS - percentage of pure silver
General -Sterling Silver
American - 925
European - 935
French - 800
Russian - 88 or 84
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Weights, measures and marks:
Avoirdupois Grain Gram Penny weight Hallmark
Troy ounce Troy weight , Tael , Quality mark , Trademark
Fine gold:
Gold containing no other elements or metals. It's also called pure gold or
24K (24 karat) gold and has a fineness of 999.
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Fineness:
The amount of gold in relation to 1000 parts. For example, gold with a fineness
of 750 has 750 parts (75%) gold and 250 parts of other metals.
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Gold alloy:
A mixture of gold with other metal (s) formed by melting them together. Gold
is alloyed (combined with metals such as silver, copper, zinc, and nickel to
reduce its cost and
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Karat gold:
A gold alloy, which in the United States must have a fineness of at least
10K. in Britain and Canada, it must be at least 9K. There's a possibility that
10K will become the legal gold standard in Britain and Canada too. British use
" carat " not " karat. " Modern European standards are marked
as decimals .750 for 18k, .585 for 14k etc.
Karat (Kt or K): The gold content of metal; refers to the quality of pure gold.
24 Karat (24K) - pure gold or fine gold
18 Karat (18K) - 75% pure gold and 25% alloy. Can be yellow or white in color.
14 Karat (14K) - 58.3% pure gold 41.5% alloy. Can be Yellow or white in color.
10 Karat (10K) - 41.67% pure gold and 58.33% alloy. Can be yellow or white
in color.
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Plumb gold Jewelry (KP):
In general usage, it means gold that has the same purity as the mark stamped
on it. Therefore, 14KP means gold jewelry which had been soldered could be stamped
14K. according to current US and Canadian law, the pure gold content must be
within 3 parts per thousand of the stamped karat mark for unsoldered items and
7 parts per thousand for soldered items. This means that technically all marked
gold sold now is plump gold. In reality, not all gold jewelry is. When jewelers
describe their jewelry as plumb gold, they are emphasizing that they abide by
the law.
In the US and Canada, gold solders have to comply with the plumb-gold laws.
A 14K solder might range from 12 to 14K. If jewelers want specify that they
want a solder which is actually 14K they may request a plumb solder. When you
have repairs done you should ask if they will use a plumb solder!
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Pure gold:
Same as fine gold.
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Solid gold:
Gold that is not hollow. Even though legally in the US, "solid gold"
can only be used for 24K gold, it more commonly refers to karat gold which is
not hollow or layered.
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Gold filled (GF):
Composed of a layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base metal ( a non-precious
metal such a brass or copper.) using heat and pressure. In the US, the layer
must be at least 10K gold and 1/20th the total weight of the object.
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Gold overlay
Same as gold filled except the gold layer is thinner. It can be from 1/20th
to 1/40th of the total weight of the object.
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Gold plated (GP)
Rolled gold plate (RGP):
Same as gold overlay. An example of how it might be indicated on a piece of
jewelry "1/40 12 Kt RGP, " meaning that the piece has been mechanically
bonded with a layer of gold which is 1/40th of the total weight of the piece.
Canadian law does not allow plated items to be stamped.
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Vermeil
Sterling silver covered with at least 120/millionths of an inch of fine gold.(
the karat of gold should be stated) The layer of gold may be either electroplated
or mechanically bonded.
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Hollow
Hollow is just that hollow. Jewelry that looks big and heavy but feels light
is apt to be hollow. It's a good idea to always ask if a piece is hollow. You
should be told with out asking, but this is not always done. Hollow jewelry
presents a variety of problems. When the walls of the piece are thin, it dents
and wears through quickly, leaving holes. Repairing it is difficult or impossible.
You will find chains, bracelets, earrings, charms and many other items of jewelry
made this way. The advantage of buying hollow jewelry is cost and weight. A
rope chain that is hollow, or earrings will be lighter and therefore more comfortable
to ware and will cost much less then solid.
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Avoirdupois weight
The weight system used in the US for food and people and almost everything
except precious metals and gems. One pound avoirdupois equals 16 ounces.
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Jewelers Troy weight
The system of weights used in the US and England for gold and silver, in which
1 pound equals 12 ounces, and 1 ounce equals 20 pennyweights. It should not
be confused with avoirdupois weight.
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