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The metals of Jewelry Making
02/09/12
The three basic metals of jewelry making are identified primarily by color.
Silver, of course, is known for its shiny "silver" hue when used in
its polished state, but also is gaining popularity in a duller matte finish
or a combination of the polished and matte. When you are purchasing sterling
silver look for the stamp of "925" which indicates the item has a
silver content of almost 93 percent silver. The seven percent alloy gives the
silver hardness and durability. Without the alloy, the silver piece would be
too soft to wear.
Gold is best known in its bright yellow color. Platinum is a rarer, valuable
whitish metal that resembles silver. What many people do not realize is that
gold actually comes in a variety of colors from white to pink, depending on
which alloy is added.
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Fine gold, that which is 99.9 percent pure, is called 24 karat gold. Though
it is a beautiful bright yellow color, 24 karat gold is too soft to work with
and too soft to hold up under regular use, making it inappropriate for most
jewelry. Most goldsmiths prefer to work in 18 karat (18K) gold which consists
of 75 percent pure gold and 25 percent alloy. The stamp mark you should look
for when purchasing 18K gold jewelry is "750."
Fourteen karat (14K) gold jewelry has a gold content of 58.33 percent gold
and the remaining metal content is alloy. The stamp mark you should look for
when purchasing fourteen karat gold jewelry is "585." When customers
ask their jeweler to melt down their 14k gold jewelry for reworking it into
a new piece, they are often surprised to find out the yield in gold is only
about 50% of the weight of the piece. Ten karat gold is the lowest karat content
that, by US standards, can legally be called "gold." It has a gold
content of 41.76 percent.
The term "solid gold" does not mean 100% gold, but rather that there
is gold content throughout a piece of jewelry (though the gold will still include
alloy) and not just on the surface, as with a gold plated item.
White gold has the same gold content as yellow gold, but the alloy used to
strengthen it gives it a silvery color. Platinum is the most valuable and most
durable of all the jewelry metals and is especially popular for engagement and
wedding rings.
The color of the metal you select to wear, whether enhanced with gemstones
or just by itself, is a very personal decision, based on coloring of the wearer,
taste and budget. In the last ten years sterling silver jewelry has rocketed
in popularity. Today jewelry stores are full of stunning pieces of silver crafted
with colored gemstones and even with diamonds. Sterling silver is particularly
appropriate for daytime wear or to accent casual sportswear. It is the simple
elegance of silver which has gained great favor in the fashion industry. In
the winter worn with black, navy and dark colors sterling silver stands out
and accents a winter wardrobe well. Yet in the summer, worn with pastels and
lightweight clothing, silver looks "cool" against bare skin and comfortable.
Silver, white gold and platinum lend the same steely hue and complement gray
hair very well. It is not uncommon for a woman to switch from yellow gold jewelry
to silver or white gold when her hair changes color.
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